Héléna, always eager to make new discoveries, decided to leave Valle Gran Rey to explore one of La Gomera’s most precious natural treasures: the Garajonay National Park. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the park is famous for its laurisylves, ancestral forests that seem to have stepped straight out of a fairytale. La Gomera, recognized as a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO, offers breathtaking scenery, and around 33% of its territory is classified as a protected natural area.
The journey from Valle Gran Rey takes around 30 minutes by bus, with a stop at Las Creces. For those who prefer the car, a small, convenient parking area is available by the roadside, just a few steps from the trails. Héléna chose to drive there, taking advantage of the freedom to stop along the way. A stop at the Mirador de la Curva del Queso offers spectacular views of the mountains and ravines below.
After enjoying the panoramic views, the journey continues through winding mountain roads to Las Creces. As soon as you step out of the car, the change in scenery is striking. Whereas in Valle Gran Rey the vegetation was dry and almost desert-like, here the forest is transformed into a veritable bower of greenery.
Start your walk from the bus stop or parking lot, and let yourself be enveloped by the magic of this place. As you advance, the pines give way to denser vegetation, marking the entrance to the humid part of the forest. The thick canopy of laurisylves filters the sunlight and plunges the undergrowth into a mysterious gloom. The temperature is also dropping, so don’t forget a jacket to keep out the chill.
Despite the altitude, the trails are well-maintained and accessible, making it easy to continue hiking with sneakers. The Garajonay forest, with its giant ferns, hanging lichens and birdsong in the humid air, offers a striking contrast to the arid landscapes of Valle Gran Rey.
Exploring the mystical forests of La Gomera
Once at Las Creces, follow the well-marked path deep into the forest towards the picnic area. The path, 0.7 km long, winds through dense green vegetation. The towering trees create a serene atmosphere conducive to walking and contemplation.
At the end of the path, a small clearing for hikers awaits you, with wooden picnic tables surrounded by nature. It’s the perfect place to take a break and breathe in the fresh air before continuing your exploration. Rather than retrace your steps, follow the trail as it loops through the forest, offering a bird’s eye view of the park’s ecological diversity.
Halfway along the loop, a well-marked path leads to Las Hayas. The walk, though slightly longer, promises a new adventure. Arriving at Las Hayas, a small village nestled in the heart of the forest, a good coffee awaits you to invigorate you after the hike. The local bistro, “Amparo”, offers, among other things, a “Tortilla francesa”, a soft omelette in a crusty baguette, topped with slices of tomato or mayonnaise. Accompanied by a fresh salad, squeezed orange juice and creamy cappuccino, this simple but tasty meal is a pleasant surprise after a morning of exploring.
Once you’ve eaten and rested, retrace your steps over the 700 metres to the fork in the road, then start on the other side of the loop, following the “In the Old Tree Heath and Way Myrtle” trail. This part of the park, though still dry, has a special atmosphere, with an ancient forest that seems to have survived the ages. The trees, with their rough bark and imposing size, tell a silent story with every step.
Crossing the forest, an old stone canal catches the eye, a vestige of a time when spring water was transported to irrigate the surrounding crops. Despite its simple appearance, this canal bears witness to the ingenuity of the local people who adapted to their environment.
Myrica faya: A little-known treasure
One of the forest’s most characteristic trees is the Myrica faya, also known as the “faya”. This tree, endemic to the Canary Islands, plays a crucial role in the local ecosystem. Its deep-green evergreen leaves contrast with the dry, rocky soil. At certain times of the year, Myrica faya trees produce small black berries which, though modest, are rich in history.
In the past, these berries were consumed by local populations, particularly in times of famine. They were a precious source of food for the poorest inhabitants, who knew how to make the most of the resources nature offered them. Today, these berries are seen more as a testimony to the past, although their use is less common.
In spring, at the end of April and beginning of May, the forest is decked out in color as wild geraniums bloom. These flowers, with their varied hues, add a touch of beauty and life to a landscape already rich in diversity.
Garajonay National Park, located on the island of La Gomera, is a remarkable natural treasure, home to one of the best representations of laurisylva, a subtropical rainforest. This ancient forest, which once covered a large part of Europe during the Tertiary period, is today a precious vestige of that distant past. The laurel forest, with its evergreen trees reaching heights of up to 40 meters, is characterized by exceptional biodiversity, including many species endemic to the Canary Islands, as well as a rich fauna of invertebrates, birds and bats.
The age of the laurel forest, which dates back to the Tertiary period, means that it evolved tens of millions of years ago, testifying to its incredible resilience and adaptation to climate change over time. Around 85% of the park is covered by this unique forest, although fires such as the one in 2012 have damaged some areas, demonstrating the fragility of this ecosystem in the face of natural disasters.
The park takes its name from the legend of Gara and Jonay, a tragic love story between a princess from La Gomera and a prince from Tenerife, who committed suicide together to escape the opposition of their families. Their love gave its name to the Garajonay mountain, the park’s highest point at 1,484 metres, from where you can see the whole island and, on a clear day, the neighbouring Canary Islands.
Garajonay is not only a site of outstanding natural beauty, but also a place steeped in myth and history, where nature and culture come together to offer visitors a unique experience.
Don’t forget to stop off at the Mirador de Alojera. Simply park your car in the parking lot, then walk just five minutes to reach an observation platform offering breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding countryside.
Practical information for visiting Garajonay National Park
- Footwear: Bring comfortable hiking boots or sneakers, as the trails are well-maintained and accessible.
- Shade: Most of the path is shaded by the dense canopy of laurel trees.
- Distance: The complete loop measures around 4.5 km, offering a pleasant walk through the forest.
- Bus stop: There’s a bus stop at Las Creces, providing easy access to the park from Valle Gran Rey.
- Parking: Free parking is available near the park entrance, a few steps from the trails.
- Catering: Two local bistros
Restaurant Amparo Las Hayas
The Amparo Las Hayas restaurant, located in the heart of the Garajonay National Park, is a true haven of gastronomic peace. When you visit, you’ll have the opportunity to sample typical La Gomera dishes prepared with natural local produce. Amparo Darias Plasencia, the emblematic hostess of the place, will welcome you with her warm hospitality. The restaurant offers specialties such as potaje de berros, goat meat with papas arrugadas, and tasty local wines.
To view the full menu and current offers, visit their website : Amparo Las Hayas. For questions or reservations, contact the owner directly via the website.
Good to know:
- Location: Just 15 minutes from the tourist center of Valle Gran Rey.
- Atmosphere: Traditional rural setting with single-storey houses surrounded by fields and gardens.
- Accommodation: The location also offers accommodation options with 4 rural houses and 6 rooms, perfect for total immersion in the life of this picturesque corner of La Gomera.
Enjoy an authentic, tasty experience as you explore the wonders of this magnificent national park.