Looking for a place where raw nature meets history in spectacular fashion? The natural pools of Hermigua, on La Gomera, are a real gem. Recently, Héléna and I had the opportunity to discover this impressive site, located on the island’s north coast. The journey from Valle Gran Rey, about 1h15 by car, took us through breathtaking scenery, offering a perfect introduction to the wild beauty of La Gomera.
A journey through time
As soon as we arrived at “El Peñón” (the rock), we were greeted by the four imposing stone columns of the Pescante de Hermigua, remnants of a bygone industrial era. These nearly thirty-meter-high pillars are all that remain of this former pier, built in 1907 to export bananas and tomatoes to Europe. Loaded onto boats from here, the merchandise was transported to larger vessels offshore, unable to dock on the rugged coastline.
History of pescantes
Pescantes were crucial infrastructure for La Gomera in the early 20th century, when the island was sorely lacking in port and road infrastructure. Built mainly between 1900 and 1910, these structures played a vital role in the export of the island’s agricultural produce. Three main pescantes were built at Hermigua, Agulo and Vallehermoso to facilitate trade.
The Pescante de Hermigua was built in 1907 by the Société Anonyme La Unión, a company formed by local landowners and immigrants returning from Cuba, with the aim of developing the export of tomatoes and bananas. This modern structure for its time, equipped with a steam engine and a large iron structure, was designed to overcome the challenges of transportation in the absence of adequate infrastructure. It represented a major technological advance at a time when roads were non-existent and piers rudimentary.
Pescante today
Today, this historic site is transformed into a fascinating natural space, housing two pools. The first, a square pool, is protected from the powerful waves of the Atlantic. With steps and a ramp for easy access, it offers a quiet, pleasant swim. We spent most of our time here, enjoying the calm and freshness of the water.
For the more adventurous, a second all-natural pool is nestled behind the rocks. Here, the waves strike with force, creating an impressive spectacle and offering a more direct immersion with the ocean.
This place is not only a tourist destination, but also a meeting point between human history and raw nature. The power of the ocean and the traces of the industrial past blend harmoniously, making our visit unforgettable.
Practical info
To access Hermigua’s natural swimming pools, simply take the car and park along the road leading to the beach. A large sign indicates that access is at your own risk. It’s essential to be prepared for an authentic, wild excursion.
If you’re traveling by bus, the nearest bus stop is in Hermigua, in the village center. From here, it’s a 45-minute walk to the natural pools.
The beach is small and, arriving around 11am, we found only two or three people on site, ideal for enjoying the peace and quiet. However, by the time we left, the beach was already packed with around 30 people. For a more leisurely visit, it’s best to arrive in the late morning. Avoid arriving too early to avoid being disturbed by the shade.
There are no amenities on the beach (stores, bistros, toilets or showers). Remember to pack everything: water, food, sunscreen, hat or cap. Stairs leading to the water can be slippery, so take care.
Lunch at Tasca Telémaco
On the way back, we took a gourmet break in Hermigua at the Tasca Telémaco restaurant. Renowned for its relaxed atmosphere and gastronomic fusion, the restaurant is set high up on a terrace overlooking a traffic circle, offering a peaceful view despite its proximity to the road.
Being vegetarians, we opted for salads such as the Tropical Salad and the Beetroot, Orange and Feta Cheese Salad, perfect for a light and tasty meal. The varied menu also includes starters such as Pimientos de Padrón and main courses based on local fish and meats. Prices are affordable, and the wine list offers both local and international options. Don’t miss the desserts, including tiramisu and maracuyá mousse. The service is pleasant, making this restaurant an excellent break during your exploration of La Gomera.
Mirador and Garajonay forest
After lunch, we continued our exploration with a stop at Mirador del Rejo. The view from here is spectacular, offering an impressive panorama of the verdant valleys and surrounding mountains.
We then continued on to theAparcamiento de Cruce de Pajarito, an excellent starting point for several hikes, including the circular walk to Alto de Garajonay, the highest point on the island. Although we didn’t do this hike, we enjoyed the breathtaking views of the majestic peaks surrounded by forests.
These stops were a fitting conclusion to our day, allowing us to immerse ourselves further in nature and enjoy the exceptional panoramas that La Gomera has to offer.
Conclusion
The natural pools of Hermigua, nestled at the foot of the Pescante mountain, are a place where history and nature meet in a striking way. This site reminds us not only of the ingenuity of early 20th-century engineers, but also of the wild beauty of La Gomera. By visiting this site, we were able to appreciate the richness of the past while enjoying the island’s natural splendor. It’s an experience not to be missed by anyone venturing onto this captivating island.
